by: Davide Longoni
With a history degree and 10 years in one of the most famous photo journalism agencies in the world, he was “converted” after one day tasting traditionally made ancient grain bread by chance. This simple sensation made him revisit his childhood roots (his was a family of bakers from Brianza) appreciating even more so the culture he inherited as a child, but in a different way, rediscovering his most ancient roots in a type of bread that creates an emotion from its flavour. The rules are: stone-ground ancient grain and Italian flour and natural baker’s yeast. He became famous around Italy and the world and published a book about his story ("Il senso di Davide per la farina", Ponte alle Grazie Ed.– “David’s gift with flour”) and now meets thousands of people around the world, teaching them to make bread at home, giving them a piece of his original, natural baker’s yeast.
Ancient grain bread, a bow of smoked ham, soft, munta calda (warm-milked) stracchino cheese, purple Lombardian cabbage, apple mustard.
I created this panino because, after years of studying grains and fermentation, I have the pleasure of presenting one of my breads as the main ingredient of a panino, accompanied by products that I selected after years of frequenting various culinary settings.
The Cisalpino panino is made with two slices of Davide Longoni’s "ancient grain" bread, through a natural fermentation process, prepared with natural, stone-ground wheat flours, spelt and rye; filled with a bow of smoked ham from Capitelli di Castel S. Giovanni (PC), munta calda, soft stracchino cheese from Le Forbesette di Morterone (LC), purple Lombardian cabbage and apple mustard from the agricultural company Luggin di Lasa.
The Capitelli company, in Castel San Giovanni, continues the Padanean tradition of cooked ham from very heavy pigs: one of these is the bow of Smoked Ham, which is a light ham.
The agricultural company Le Forbesette was founded in 2017 thanks to two young men from Lecco who had just completed their degrees, and received financing from the Town of Morterone, Italy’s smallest town, situated in the Lombardian mountains, which has tried to overcome the problem of under population. Young but not without resources, thanks to the support and advice of more experienced farmers and cheese makers who taught their own traditional methods of using raw, “munta calda” milk in order to make the stracchino cheese that is not heated, but takes advantage of the naturally warm temperature of the freshly milked milk.
The Luggin Farm is patriarchal and autonomous in the Val Venosta, cultivating ancient types of apples and hand-made mustards.
The Panificio Davide Longoni perceives bread as an agricultural product that is the result of the industry supply chain. In the fields of the Chiaravalle Abbazia, ancient grains are cultivated and are used in the bread dough: rye, spelt enkir and hulled wheat. The bread is made of the main dough, and a natural rising agent, made only of four and water. It is mixed, worked and left to rise for 6-8 hours a tub for the first rising. Then, it is pre-formed once manually and then a second, final time. After six hours of rising it is placed in the oven.